Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference Report

Report on the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference 

March 3 -5, 2006

The Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference is in its twelfth year and has become the pinnacle of Civil War Civilian research conferences in the United States.  The Conference is run by The Genteel Arts Academy based in Gettysburg, and operated by Carolann Schmitt.  Each year, the Conference goes back to the Radisson Hotel and Conference Center in Harrisburg.  Civil War Civilian scholars such as Juanita Leisch Jensen, Lynette Miller, Les Jensen, and William Brown speak and present research at this Conference.

My experience at the Conference actually started in Gettysburg on Thursday, March 2, when I attended a hands-on session at the Gettysburg National Military Park Archives.  We were introduced to Greg Goodell, a Ranger at the GNMP, who gave us a brief history of their collection of civilian clothing and walked us through the process of using the Archives.  After becoming acquainted with the layout of the Archives, Greg told the participants that we would be allowed to put on white gloves and examine items ourselves.  I quickly started looking at men's civilian clothing, particularly a wonderfully bold vest that had quite impressive buttons.  I examined a few dresses, men's shirts, a pair of military trousers, and even a magnificent patriotic apron worn by a women right here in Adams County.  A few of the participants were interested in flags, so I also examined some meticulous hand stitching on a beautiful Confederate battle flag. 

Friday saw the actual start of the Conference, and after an uneventful trip to Harrisburg, I met up with Juanita Leisch Jensen, author of several books on the period - Civil War Civilians and Who Wore What.  Each participant was given a binder of information including the schedule, but more importantly outlines of each presentation, some including pictures, patterns, and vast lists of additional resources.  The night's festivities started up at 7:00 pm with a welcome from Master of Ceremonies Carolann Schmitt.  She introduced our first speaker, Nicky Hughes, who spoke about Senator Jacob Golladay (a Senator from Kentucky) and his wife.  The next portion of the event was a panel discussion entitled Panel Discussion: "Venues for Historic Research" featuring Juanita Leisch, Virginia Mescher, Wayne Motts and Briant Bohleke, moderated by Susan Lyons Hughes. 

Briant Bohleke presented first, speaking about his experience as a Project Archivist at the Adams County Historical Society.  Wayne Motts, the Collections Manager of the Adams County Historical Society, spoke next. Finally, Juanita Leisch Jensen spoke about research through period photographs and how to care for, date, use, and catalog period photographs.  The discussion wrapped up with some questions from the audience - the most enlightening being a question about how to handle items in a public setting that are not being handled correctly by the staff of the museum. 

Saturday morning came a bit too early as breakfast started at 7:00 am and opening remarks at 8:00.  Each of the presenters was asked to create a garment out of the similar material and at this time they each presented what they were wearing.  The women had a fine 1850s madder print while the men had beautiful light brown wool broadcloth.  Maryanne Greketis then presented "Lucy Locket's Pocket: Pockets, Purses, Flat Bags and Reticules".  This presentation was very interesting as she worked her way through several ways that women carried items, from hidden inside pockets to bold and vibrant flat bags. 

After lunch, Colleen Formby presented "Commend Me to a Knitting Wife: Civil War Era Knitting and Knitted Garments".  This was a fine presentation regarding the importance and immense usage of knitting during the era.  She presented reproductions, how different size needles were used, the difference in yarn weight, and different stitching techniques.  Lynnette Miller then spoke about "The Finishing Touch: Fashionable Bonnets 1860-1865".  This presentation regarded only those high fashion bonnets of the era and their evolution as fashion and trends changed.  She presented originals, photographs, fashion plates, and even some engravings of women wearing bonnets.

That evening, all of the participants joined together for a fabulous dinner and reception.  About half of the participants dressed in their finest period attire.  Sunday morning, like Saturday morning, came too early.  The morning's first presentation was given by Les Jensen entitled "Depot Women: Unknown Backbone of the Confederacy".  Mr. Jensen and this presentation sparked an interest in me about the production of military uniforms in depots throughout the South.  Emmanuel Dabney then presented "The Entire North and Northwest are Hopelessly Abolitionized:  John Brown, and Incorporating Slavery Into Your Impression".  He spoke very candidly about racial issues during the period as well as the ways in which we, with our 21^st century mindset, must adapt to the mindset of the people we portray and by not doing that we are committing an injustice to history and to the memory of the people we are trying to preserve. Carolann Schmitt finished the Conference with Thank-You's and well wishes to all of the participants. 

The opportunity to see, touch, and examine original garments and artifacts, to listen to scholars discuss topics that one can only learn about at a conference like this one, and to spend a weekend with people that think like me and have a passion for Civil War Era textiles, garments, fashion, and history just as I do was simply amazing. 

Traci Manning, Gettysburg College CWES Minor '07